How To Water

How to check the moisture content in your soil

• The first step is to remove a soil sample using a spade, a trowel, or an apple coring-
  like device. The sample should be deep enough to be representative of more than
  just the top layer of soil. Depending on the size of the plant, try to get at a least 2” to 6” sample of soil. If the soil sample is hard and crumbles, it is too dry. If it is muddy or sopping, it is too wet. If the soil is firm and moist enough to hold a ball
  when it is squeezed, it is about right.
•  

  Visual inspection of the plant will also provide clues as to its water requirements. Dry, wilted leaves signify too little water. Wet, wilted leaves are a sign of too much water. There may also be a moldy, rotten smell emanating from the soil when there is too much water present.

When watering, apply sufficient water so that the soil containing the roots is thoroughly moist. Between waterings, allow the soil to dry enough so that it is only slightly moist, but not so much that it is bone dry. The larger the plant, the more water is required and
the longer it will take to dry sufficiently. The amount applied will also vary depending on the weather and soil conditions. Hot, dry days mean more frequent watering. Cool and moderately wet periods, less watering. It is always a good idea to check the soil before and after watering, until you have a better idea of how much water your plant requires.

Proper watering during the first growing season is the single most important factor in successful transplanting. If you are uncertain, concerned, or have any questions, do not hesitate to call us immediately.

Watering

Once your sod has been installed, start watering your new lawn as soon as possible. It is critical to keep new sod constantly moist.

If the temperature is between 60⁰ and 80⁰

• 1st week & 2nd week – water the new sod between 1 to 2 hours during the early morning (4 a.m. – 9 a.m.) if possible or early evening (4:30 p.m. – 7:30 p.m.) each day
•  

  3rd week – water your new sod every other day between 1 to 2 hours during the early morning (4 a.m. -9 a.m.) if possible or early evening (4:30 p.m. -7:30 p.m.)

If the temperature is above 80⁰

• 1^st week – water each area several hours each day.
• 2^nd week – water the new sod between up to 2 hours during the early morning (4:00 a.m. -9:00 a.m.) if possible or early evening (4:30 p.m. – 7:30 p.m.) each day.
• 3^rd week – water your new sod every other day between 1 to 2 hours during the early morning (4:00 am -9:00 am) if possible or early evening (4:30 p.m. -7:30 p.m.)

If the temperature is below 60⁰

• 1^st week & 2^nd week – water your new sod every other day between 1 to 2 hours.

Cutting

New sod should not be cut until it is established. This is approximately 3 weeks. To test, tug gently on a corner of sod. If there is resistance, the sod is established. Allow grass to dry for a day or so before mowing. Mow and maintain at a height of 2-1/2” to 2-3/4”. After the first mowing, the new sod should receive at least 1” of water each week, either from rain or watering.

Fertilizing

The new lawn should not be fertilized for the first three months. After that, it should be fertilized up to four times per year.

Caring Guidelines for New Seed

There are many factors that can affect the germination of your newly-spread grass seed. Lack of moisture and cool weather tends to delay sprouting, and overwatering and high temperatures tend to create a potential for disease. Remember to avoid walking on the
lawn during this period and for several weeks after.

Watering

For the first three weeks: water lightly twice a day to keep the seed moist. If excess water begins to run off or erosion occurs, turn off the sprinkler immediately. After three weeks, the turf should receive one inch of water during the course of a week, either from rain or watering.

Cutting

Your new lawn should not be mowed until it is at least 3 inches high. At that time, mow with the mower on the highest setting. Allow grass to dry for a day or so before mowing. Subsequent mowing should maintain lawn at a height of 2-1/2” to 3”.

Fertilizing

After the third cutting, broadleaf weeds can be sprayed. Fertilize on a regular basis.

• Water twice or three times a week for 1^st month.
  • For trees and larger shrubs, a slow trickle from a garden hose for 20-40 minutes or 1 to 2 hours with an isolating sprinkler
  • For perennials, annuals, and groundcover, hand water for 15 minutes or use an isolating sprinkler for 30 minutes
  • After the 1st month, plants, trees, evergreens, and lawns should have 1” of water per week. A water gauge can be purchased at your local landscape supply store or hardware store.
  • During the first year after planting, check all plants weekly by inserting your finger into the soil to a depth of two to three inches. Water when the soil is no longer moist. Slow, deep watering is preferred.
  • The smaller the root system a plant has, the more necessary it is to keep up with the watering needs
  • Excessive, frequent watering is as bad for plants as no water, so check your soil before watering

Under-watering

• Soil is Dry ˜
• Older leaves turn yellow or brown; drop off ˜
• Leaves are wilted ˜
• Leaves are drooping ˜
• Leaves curl ˜
• Stems or branches die back ˜

Over-watering

• Soil is constantly damp
• Leaves turn lighter green to yellow, may drop off
• Young shoots are wilted
• Algae and/or mushrooms appear
• Leaves are green yet brittle
• Presence of soft, smelly rotted tissue

The best time to water is early morning before the temperatures begin to rise (4 a.m. – 9 a.m.). Watering in the morning allows water to soak deeply into the soil, providing the plants with a good amount of water to face the heat of the day. If watering cannot be done in the early morning, late afternoon is also an option (4:30 p.m. – 7:30 p.m.). It is important to water early enough in the afternoon so the leaves have time to dry before nightfall. Allowing the leaves to dry before nightfall reduces development of fungal diseases.